Amorgos

A breathtaking island made famous by the film "Le Grand Bleu" by Luc Besson (there, I said it), mountainous and steep, surrounded by the clearest blue waters you've ever seen.

The capital is Chora (5km uphill from Katapola) and the island has two ports: Katapola and Egiali. Most people book in Katapola, although it's not something special and sometimes the port stinks (sewers). I prefer Egiali, which is quieter and has better beaches around it. Chora is great with many narrow streets and hidden cafes here and there, but one needs a car to get to the beaches. Other villages are Tholaria, Langada (don't miss the tavernas in these two - yummy!) and Potamos on the mountain over Egiali, while Kolofana, Kalotaritissa, Arkesini, Vroutsi and Kamari are on the west end of the island (see map).

Transport is mainly by bus which goes on all destinations mentioned above, on a paved road network. You will find unpaved roads near the beaches but they aren't long (maybe the road that goes to Mouros is a bit rough and steep, apart from that they're easily accessible by car). There are also taxis and small boats that take you to remote beaches.

You will find ATMs in Chora and Katapola, while there are Post Offices in Chora, Katapola and Egiali. The post office in Egiali is impossible to find although it's right in the front looking at the port. Urban camouflage maybe? Good luck!

There are some very nice beaches to swim: Agia Anna (where Big Blue was filmed), Mouros (go for fresh fish in the taverna over the beach), Kalotaritissa (there's a shipwreck in a nearby gulf), Katokambos, Agioi Saranta, Maltezi, Egiali (beware of tar patches in the sand), Levroso (accessible by footpath from Egiali), Mikri Vlychada, Megali Vlychada (the last two are accessible only by footpath from Tholaria). There is also a small beach (rather a rocky pier) called Plakes, near Katapola, which can be visited by boat but isn't anything special. The island is ideal for long walks along footpaths and there are some that have small square signs informing you of their destination and estimated time to get there on foot.

Nightlife? What nightlife? Katapola, Chora and Egiali have 3-4 bars each but don't expect much after 1.00 am. Katapola is the liveliest of all but still it's not the island where people party late and loud. It's more about having a sociable drink and dozing off in an empty bar around 1.00am. Oh, and eating out is a must here. Many tavernas with great local recipes, and wine along with the local sweet variation of cinnamon flavoured raki called "psimeni raki" ("psimeni" means "roast").

A great place to see is Hozoviotissa Monastery (next to Agia Anna beach). I was never fond of sightseeing in the sense of "let's go and see this, then that, and that etc." just because they're mentioned in a guide. However, this monastery is a must. You will be asked to put on baggy trousers of ludicrous waistline size over your clothes, as it's a monastery and you have to respect the monks' concentration.

You can also visit Nikouria island, a long uninhabited islet with two beaches (just opposite Egiali). A boat takes you there and back but do take water and/or food as there's no canteen there.

Amorgos is accessible by boat only. The trip takes 11-13 hours and if you take a SeaJet boat it takes 6 hours. There is one boat every day for both ports (Katapola and Egiali) while the SeaJet runs twice every week.

Some useful phones are:
Port Authority: 22850 71259
Police: 22850 71210 (Chora), 22850 73320 (Langada)
Post Office: 22850 71250 (Chora), 22850 71805 (Ormos)
Medical Center: 22850 71207 (Chora), 22850 71805 (Katapola), 22850 73222 (Ormos), 22850 72250 (Arkesini)