Astypalaia

The westerner island of the Dodecanese, Astypalaia has a rather evident Cycladic style with whitewashed houses and churches. It is a quiet destination with many picturesque spots and maybe the friendliest locals I've ever met. Aegean's best kept secret?

There are 4 villages in Astypalaia: Chora, Pera Gialos (port), Livadia Maltezana and Vathy (see map). Chora is a beautiful labyrinth of backstreets with the ruins of the Medieval Castle on top. Pera Gialos is an extension of Chora just on the opposite side of the port. Livadi is a small village on the south of the island, not far from Chora (easily accessible on foot). Maltezana and Vathy are on the north side of the island. There are ATMs on the island (on the port, next to the Port Authority).

Astypalaia has a unique geography as it's actually two islands connected with a narrow strip of land (see map). In the west part the beaches are rocky, lined with pebbles, while in the east part they have more sand. Although all villages are interconnected with a paved road in good condition, if you want to explore the rest be prepared for rough unpaved roads with gravel. We had 2 flat tires, so a 4x4 is recommended especially if you venture towards the two northern tips of the island - Vathy and Panormos. All in all, the nice parts are accessible so you're not missing out if you stay around civilization. There are buses that run from Livadia to Chora, to Pera Gialos, to Maltezana.

Nightlife is quite unique here. Although it's not a crowded destination, everyone goes out late (after 00:30 am) till sunrise. Don't miss the sunrise from the top of Chora, everyone stays up just for that. There are some nice bars in the backstreets with good music, you'll just have to walk around to find them. In Artemis bar you can order pasta even at 3:00 am! We particularly liked the food in the tavernas in Livadia while Eva Diez's confectionery in Chora is not to be missed for dessert.

Some nice beaches to swim are: Agios Konstantinos, Kaminakia, Vatses (near Livadia), Livadia, Marmari (near the camping), Steno, Analipsi, Mple Paralia (Blue Beach) (near Maltezana).

Astypalaia is accessible by boat or airplane. There are at least 4 flights per week and during high season there might be more. At least one boat stops every day but expect 4-6 hour delays as the boat makes many stops in popular islands. The trip varies from 10-14 hours depending on the season and the in-between stops the boat must make. Blue Star ferries and Dane Lines boats are to be preferred. Avoid any Hellas Ferries boats (museum pieces).

If you're looking for accomodation, I can recommend astypalaia.com. Although the navigation can be a bit confusing (cursed frames) it has a comprehensive hotel listing complete with photos and prices. I would recommend renting in Pera Gialos so you can have a view of Chora on a balcony by the sea (Karlos or Akti Studios were our first pick). Rooms to let around the Kastro area are more expensive but are conveniently close to the center of Chora and some have a great view (many are behind other buildings and have a narrow balcony that looks to a backstreet...). Accomodation in Livadia is cheaper and takes about 20 minutes (uphill) to get to Chora on foot.

There is a camping site just outside Chora but be aware that it's right next to the local electricity board plant and it can be noisy at some nights (it's either the electricity plant or the camping restaurant music). However, it has nice shades, is well organized and you can book before you get there. Rumour has it that the coast guard makes a lot more patrols to stop people camping for free on beaches since that camping started operating under local owners.

Some useful phone numbers are:
Police: 22430 61207, Port Authority: 22430 61208
Medical Center: 22430 61222, Pharmacy: 22430 61444
Tourist information: 22430 61412, Airport: 22430 61410, 22430 61665
Post Office: 22430 61223

Travel Agencies:
G. Aggelides: 22430 61328, 22430 61292, (Fax) 22430 61328
F. Aggelides: 22430 61224